Camino Blog / Vézelay Route to Santiago de Compostela

Day 4 12th April. Prémery to Guérigny

Actually, Un pas a la Fois is 3.8km before Prémery. 

A good evening last night was a prelude to a very good night’s sleep despite 4 of us in a room. The Germans, Katarina and Henning are also supposed to sleep with us tonight, if they don’t get lost (they have before). Henning is from Dresden and Katarina is from the Baltic, she’s very talkative. They’re 19 and 20 and very enthusiastic.

Me, Joe, Katarina and Henning

We were offered bread and confiture for breakfast, so I saved up for morning tea, and a good show too. Just into the middle of Prémery was a little bar. We went in and asked for coffee, were offered croissants as well, asked for cheese and was told it would be in a sandwich. Sandwich turned out to be half a baguette smothered in butter and accompanied by a huge round of Camembert. Plus coffee. John was well satisfied and it came to 8 euros for the two of us. We took half the Camembert with us. 

It was a cold morning, the first for gloves and there was a frost with a slight northerly. But out of the wind the day turned glorious, not a cloud and bluer sky than we’ve had. 

Coming into Prémery

A lot of today was on or beside tarmac roads and some of them with traffic, but we were slightly slower and it was effortless, despite the distance (22km). Much of it was through or beside forests, mostly beech. We lunched beside a filled in well at Mauvron, a sleepy village. Guérigny is an old steel town and there is still a bit of an industrial feel here. 

We visited our first supermarchė here and got fresh fruit. I was craving it. We’re going to a local restaurant tonight that people say is good. 

Joe and I have been practising a bit of Maori, on the move. Mostly Karakia (incantations/prayers) and whakatauki (wise sayings). Bert gave me a book on these and I’ve digitised it. 

I had a little tenderness on my plantar aspects of the feet so swapped orthotics today for ones with more arch support. Did the job, bit of course, different from what I’ve been training in so I’ve got a couple of hot spots on my little toes. All safely taped up now. Some people might find that a bit boring but it is my hope and aspiration never to have to mention it again. 

We’re staying in another Refuge Pélerin,

got the key from the Mairie and have to return it in the morning. It was hard to find, at the back of an abandoned house, but perfectly adequate for the four of us. 

Mauvron where we stopped for cheese and sausage lunch

I must comment on the changing seasons. Every day is greener and the blossoms are fantastic, mostly cherry, apple and pear. Our first day there was no greenery, but now only four days later, almost every variety of tree has some green except the oaks. It’s a beautiful spectacle opening up before our eyes.

I’ve heard that some of the photos on this blog are upside down. Sorry about that. Not only am I new at this but I’m loading them in the country on sketchy bandwidth. I think it works better if I load photos one at a time and save but someone could let me know if that’s not working. In the meantime, I hope the monologue is interesting. It has been great here so far and very lucky with the weather.

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